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Welcome to Shoreline Stone Supply! We cater to the DIY homeowner!

Please use the tabs above to view some of the products we sell. Photos, Projects and Products will give you different ways of viewing our materials.

Also take a look at our Resources section, where you can find plenty of information on installation, design, and purchasing for your project. You can also find details on our policies, and our recommendations for finding a local contractor.

Visit our Idea Center to find plenty of real life projects created with our own products. Our staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and always willing to give advice!

Click on the photos below for a sample of just a few of the many completed projects you can find at our Idea Center.


Click on the photos below for a closer look at the many projects we've completed using our selection of pavers, granite, stone and more!



Click on the photos below to see more details on some of our products, and the projects we've created using them.

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Natural Stone
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Other Products Include:
Tampers (Hand - 8x8, 10x10) Levels (all types) Geo Grid (small rolls) Jointers (El Dorado)
Soap Stone Soap Stone Holders Splitters (Rental) Screen (El Dorado)
Brick Chisels / Hammers Mason Hammers MK Saw (Rental) Spec Mix (El Dorado)
Caulk (both sizes) Caulk Guns (both sizes) Plate Compactor (Rental) Brooms / Shovels
Paver Gloves Diamond Blades Quickrete Chalk Line
Safety Glasses Trowels Bagged Polymeric Sand Mortar Bags
Screed Poles Grading Rake Paver Edging Dust Masks
Bulk: 3/4" Processed Brushes Landscape Spikes Rollers / Roller Pads
Bulk: 3/4" Trap Tape Measures Mason Line How-to Guides / Videos
Bulk: Sand Knee Pads Dead Blow Hammers Fabric
Bulk: Stone Dust Mortar Pans Wheelbarrows Sealers/Cleaners
> Trusted Contractors

Call us at (203) 469-4500 for a list of our recommended contractors.

> Ask the Expert

We're in the process of putting together a list of our most commonly asked questions. Please see what we have below and check back to see what's new!

> Q. What are the benefits of pavers vs. concrete or asphalt?

A. The major advantage of a paver patio is that they don't crack and will maintain there beauty for a very long time. In Connecticut, we have to deal with the harsh winters and with that comes the freeze, thaw dilemma. Over time, concrete and asphalt will crack due to a variety of reasons, among them are expansion and contraction due to freezing, and thawing. Although the initial cost of concrete or asphalt may be cheaper, the repairs in the long run will end up costing you more money and be unsightly. Patching the cracks creates an undesirable look in your patio or driveway.

Stamped concrete has become more popular over the last few years. This gives you the ability to make the concrete look like pavers and add color to it. The same disadvantages still apply. It will still crack and when you have to make repairs to this concrete, it is almost impossible to match the color or maintain the same pattern.

The solution to the above mentioned problems is interlocking pavers. They are available in a wide range of colors, styles, and textures. The pavers will move with the freezing and thawing, therefore eliminating the cracks. If in a rare circumstance a paver does crack, you can simply replace just that paver and still have the same beautiful driveway or patio.

Once pavers are installed, you can immediately use that area. Concrete, on the other hand can take up to 5 days to cure before using the driveway or patio. Pavers are also less slippery due to the many joints which allows water to drain off and also decreases nighttime glare.

> Project Resources

There are so many projects you can build with our products. We'll be adding How To articles regularly to help you make the best of your purchase!

> How To - Pavers

Step 1:    Plan the Project - Measure the area and draw it out on paper. Take into consideration and permanent structures such as trees, buildings, fences, etc.

Step 2:    Excavate the Area - Dig out the area approximately 12" larger than the size of the project. This will allow for edging to be placed against the pavers when the job is done. The amount to excavate depends on the type of project you are doing.

  • 4-6" of base for walkways and patios
  • 6-8" of base around pools or for vehicle traffic

To achieve the desired base, excavate down an additional 3" to allow for the sand and the pavers.

Step 3:    Installing the base layer - After excavating the soil, compact the area with a plate compacter. A hand tamper can be used for tight areas. Begin filling the area with 3/4" processed gravel. This should be compacted approximately every 2 - 4". Continue laying the base in this manner until it is approximately 3" from your final grade.

Step 4:    Lay the Bedding Sand - Spread a 1 inch base of washed sand on top of the base. The easiest way to do this is to use 1 inch electrical conduit. Set up two pieces of conduit about 8 feet apart and shovel sand in between them. Then use a 2 x 4 board or screed rail and pull the sand along the conduit. This will give you exactly one inch of sand. You can then slide the rails down filling in the holes by hand. After laying  pavers in this area, you repeat the process.

Step 5:    Lay the Pavers - Start in a 90 degree corner and lay the pavers in whatever pattern you have chosen. Cuts can be made as you go or you can wait until the end to make the cuts.

Step 6:    Install edging - After all pavers are laid, you will need to install edging. This edging sits below the surface and helps to keep the pavers in place during freezing and thawing.

Step 7:    Compact the Pavers - Sweep all debris off the pavers. Spread a locking sand over the top and sweep in with a broom. There are different methods depending on which sand you use. Read the directions on the bag carefully. Using a plate compactor make multiple passes over the pavers. This will help to set them in place and lock them in.

Call us or stop by to get more detailed information and diagrams regarding the installation.

> How To - Retaining Walls

Step 1:    Plan your garden or retaining wall. Keep in mind that most wall systems are designed to be no taller than 4' high without needing additional materials and possibly engineering

Step 2:    Excavate a trench - The style of wall will dictate how deep you need to go. For most retaing walls you want to bury at least 1/2 of a block if not a whole block. The depth of the trench will also be determined by the type of block and height of the wall. Keep in mind that you will want to back fill the wall with stone for drainage purposes, so you will want at least 2 feet behind the wall.

Step 3:    Compact the excavated trench and line the back with landscape fabric to separate the soil form the stone that will be put in after.

Step 4:    Lay the Base - Using 3/4" processed gravel, fill the trench and compact it every 2-3". You will want a final base of approximately 6".

Step 5:    Lay the first course - Lay your first block on the base. Level the block by using a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer to set the block in place. Check to see that it is level both side to side and front to back. Either raise the block by adding more base or by tapping it with the hammer. Now set your second block and level the same way. Then check to make sure both blocks are level with each other. Continue until the entire first course is laid. If drainage is required, now is the time to put it in. Place perforated pipe behind the wall and fill with 3/4" trap rock.

Step 6:    Build the Wall - Some blocks will have pins, others will have lips, and others channels depending on the style you are using. Stack the block making sure to stagger the joints as you go.

Step 7:    Backfill each course with 3/4" crushed stone.

Step 8:    Cap the wall - There are many options available for the cap block or the top of the wall.

Please call us or stop by today for more detailed information and diagrams.